The Denim Guy

Interview with Ewing Blaek Cheng – Managing Director of Deninology, Distributor of SPELLBOUND and DOMINGO Ltd

1. Tell us about history of SPELLBOUND, how did it all start? SPELLBOUND launched in1981 by Domingo Ltd owned by Chairman Mr. Uchida san.

2. How did you decide to become the main distributor of SPELLBOUND? I was a senior designer at Evisu since 2004; I left Evisu in the summer of 2008 Because I found that the denim market was starting to feel the impact of cheap denim product, lots of new denim brands classify themselves as “Premium Denim” but they cannot offer premium standard to their product, so they are misleading the consumer on what is the true authentic jean by different marketing skills. I was upset and disappointed by this tendency, so I decided to quit my job and went to Okayama (the home town of Japanese denim) to search for the real true authentic denim product.

Soon through my previous work connection with the Japanese Denim supplier, I had a chance to meet up with a few Kojima denim brand owners such as Denime, Kato etc, and finally I decided to collaborated with Spellbound (Domingo Ltd.) because we had a similar direction and target for developing the Japanese denim to the outside market. I am very surprised Spellbound is not yet discovered by the outside Japan market.

3. How did the collaboration between Deninology and Domingo start? We started at the worst time: during the financial crisis, but Domingo and myself think that this is the best time to develop a brand because big denim brands such as Levis, they are shrinking down the percentage of the denim market, which also means that other individual denim brand have a better chance to develop in the denim market.

4. What attracted you to SPELLBOUND in the first place? Good washing and sewing technique at a reasonable price.

5. Are all products 100% made in Japan? All products are made in Japan and Howa Corp. does the washing process, which is one of the best laundries in Japan. All fabrics are also made in Japan except for some particular ones.

6. Tell us about your denim? Fabric Supplied by “Collect” where located in Kojima Okayama. They are a well-known unique denim supplier.  Woven with conventional shuttle loom with crisp texture, special high & low effect can be created easily upon long term wearing & washing. It is 14 oz special dark selvedge denim. Rivet was plain design in copper, Supplier YKK Snap fastener. Specially strike 2 times to make unique effect. Tuck Button, Centre opened type. Very rare 2 nail type. Waist button with Spellbound logo; Fly button” One Star” design supplied by YKK nail Fastener. Washing process: Wash in tumbling barrel & dry under sunshine. We washed our jean with Sand blast, tucking with plastic pin, whisker, stone wash, chlorine bleach, enzyme etc. For 26-3, different type of bleach, grinding hole, destructed effect.

7. What is Spellbound’s signature?

1. The back yoke & centre back are made with thinner double stitch.

2. The yoke rolled seam with double chain stitch, back centre flat fell seam which is handcrafted.

3. One stroke stitch on the back pocket. Yarn count/color of sewing thread are varying.

4. Use cotton thread to make natural puckering effect. Hidden bar tack at back pocket opening. 5. Logo only shown on left pocket fabric with stamp. Back pocket & watch pocket with curve shape.

8. What is the main focus during production? Quality, you can find our production promise on the jean patch – Manufactured with highest standards and craftsmanship.

9. What is the meaning of the name SPELLBOUND? Spellbound means “Extremely interested in something you are listening to”.  It is not only with music, we are aiming to attract people with our products.

10. How do you present the SPELLBOUND Autumn/Winter 2010 Collection? A basic denim line in which the original texture of materials and the used look created by gifted craftsmen are both constructed into a modern silhouette with attention given to good authentic sewing and details.

SPELLBOUND creates the season line in which the practical details and materials of working wears, military wears, and outdoor wears are reconstructed into the modern silhouette and design. We present you a collection of daily wear that can be worn casually, yet reserve the integrity of true quality.

11. What are your futures plans for SPELLBOUND? We hope Spellbound can sell at most of the landmark department store in each European country. And we are looking for open concept store or store in store with big department house such as Selfridge at London, Lane Crawford at Hong Kong and Barneys at New York.

12. Where do you see SPELLBOUND in 5 years? Hopefully SPELLBOUND can be the next Edwin JP. Keep up our high quality product and grow even bigger.

Interview from OKIYA. Images from my good friend at denimaniac

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